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Glimpses of 

Lake Champlain 



Chas. H. Possons, Publisher and Printer (%> 
Glens FaUs, N. Y. ^ 

Copyrighted 1896 



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, AUG ?li 1896 



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fake 6hamplain 



For more than one hundred years after the discovery of the American continent by Christopher 
Cohimbiis in 1492 the beautiful Cliamplain valley lay hidden from the civilized people of the earth. 

In the year 1603 Samuel de Champlain, a nobleman of France, visited several places in America, 
and returned to his country filled with the burning zeal of an explorer. In 1608 the French court fitted 
out a fleet and placed it under his command. He arrived at Quebec in the earh- part of July, where he 
remained until the following spring. Learning from the Indians, the Algonquins, who inhabited the ter- 
ritory north of tlie St. Lawrence, that there was a large body of water in the south, between them and a 
powerful tribe of Indians, the Iroquois, who were their enemies, he resolved to explore it. He set out for 
this purpose April 10, 1609, and on the morning of the 4th of July entered the lake to which he afterwards 
gave his own name. 

The lake was known among the aboriginal Indians as Pe-Tonbonqne, or " the Waters which Lie 
Between," viz.: between them and the Iroquois. The Iroquois themselves called it Caniaderi-Giianinie ^ 
that is, the " Lake that is the Gate of the Country." 

Lake Champlain lies between the States of New York and Vermont, more than half being within 
the limits of the latter State. From Whitehall to Fort Montgomer}', according to U. S. coast surve)', the 
distance is 107 ys miles ; its greatest width, across from the mouth of Ausable River, 12% miles ; its mean 



width is about 4.14 miles, and its greatest depth — at a point i 7q miles southeast of Essex Landing — 399 
feet. Measuring down into Missisquoi Bay, on the east side, extending into Canada and separated from 
the outlet by Alburgh Tongue, the extreme length of the lake is about 118 miles. Its elevation above 
tide is 93 feet. At the time of French occupancy the southern end of Lake Champlain was designated at 
Fort St. Frederic, the waters below that point being considered Wood Creek. 

Previous to the settlement of the country by the Europeans Lake Champlain had long been the 
thoroughfare between hostile and powerful Indian tribes, and its shores the scene of many a mortal con- 
flict ; and after the settlement it continued the same in reference to the French and English colonies, and 
subsequently in reference to the English in Canada and the United States. In consequence of this 
peculiarit>- of its location the name Lake Champlain stands connected with some of the most interesting 
events in the annals of our country ; and the transactions associated with the names of Ticonderoga, and 
Crown Point, and Plattsburgh, and many other places, united with the variety and beauty of the scenery, 
the neatness and accommodation of the steamboats, render a tour through this lake one of the most 
interesting and agreeable to the enlightened traveler. 

The shores of Lake Champlain are indented by numerous bays, most of which are small. Missis- 
quoi bay is the largest and belongs principally to \"erniont, extending some distance into Canada. There 
are several islands in the lake, the principal ones being South Hero, North Hero, Isle la Motte and Val- 
cour. South Hero, also called Grand Isle, is thirteen miles long, and is divided into two townships. 
North Hero is about eleven miles long, but is very narrow, and constitutes a township of the same name. 
Isle la i\Iotte constitutes a township b^■ the same name. 



No part of the United States is more interesting from its historic incidents than Lake Champlain. 
Every bay and island of the lake, and nearly every foot of its shores, has been the scene of some warlike 
movement — the midnight foray of the predatory savages, the bloody scont of frontier settlers, the rendez- 
vous of armed bands, or the conflict of contending armies. These stirring incidents extend in tradition far 
beyond the first discovery of. the lake, and brought down by scattered and uriconnected history in an almost 
uninterrupted series of strifes and contentions to the close of the war of 1812. 

The territory now distinguished by the general designation of the Valley of Lake Champlain was, 
for nearly a century, a debatable ground between the powers of France and England. Claimed by each 
under arbitrary charter, or imaginary title, overrun and subverted in turn by both, and permanently occu- 
pied by neither, it derived from the presence of their armies little amelioration of its primitive savage 
aspect. 

As early as 1730 the French conceived the idea of founding a great political power on the shores of 
the lake, the capitol of which should be at Crown Point. Here they built a fort called Fort St. Frederic, 
and laid the foundation of an extensive settlement. 

Twenty-five years later, in 1755, a fort was built at Ticonderoga. Ticonderoga was called Carillon^ 
a French word meaning chime, the name being given with reference to the perpetual music of the falls. 
The idea was suggested by the Indian name Cheonderoga , which in the Iroquois tongue signifies " Sound- 
ing Water. 



gteamcrs on 

%n\\c (^bainplain... 



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To Lake Champlain is credited the origin of the steamboat. 
Robert Fulton obtained his first idea of the Clermont while stopping 
on the lake, and one year after the memorial trial trip of this steam- 
boat, or in iSoS, Burlington parties built a steamboat, which was 
launched the following year. 

The Champlain Transportation Company, which operates the 
regular passenger steamers on this lake, is the oldest steamboat 
company in the United vStates. It was chartered in 1826. 

The Vermont, of this line, runs between Fort Ticonderoga and 
Plattsburgh. It is 226 feet long, 36-foot beam, 9-foot hold, and has 
a capacity of 11 25 tons. The boat has fifty-six staterooms. 

The Chateaugay runs between Westport, N. Y. , and North Hero, 
Vt. The Chateaugay is a steel boat, 203 feet long, 30-foot beam and 
9-foot hold. 




steamers ot dbamplam ttransportation Co. 



IRuins ot.. 

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The remains of Fort Ticonderoga are situated on a peninsula, 
elevated about a hundred feet above the lake, a position of consider- 
able importance, being protected on three sides by water. On the 
west is Mount Defiance, nearly 800 feet high. Between it and the 
fort the outlet of Lake George joins Lake Champlain. To the south- 
east is Mount Independence. The first attempt to fortify the posi- 
tion was made by the English in 1691. In 1755 the French began 
building the present fort. The earthworks were constructed between 
the lakes. A stone fort, star-shaped, was built on the east side and 
called Vaudrille. In 1759 the works spread over a large part of the 
peninsula. Baron Dieskau's troops stopped at Ticonderoga when 
thev were marching to attack the English, in 1755, and also when 
the^• returned, broken and defeated. From here Montcalm marched 
to the attack of Fort William Henry in 1757. Here Abercrombie 
was defeated in 1758, and suffered a loss of nearly 2000 in killed and 
wounded. In 1759 Amherst, with an army of 12000, intrenched be- 
fore the lines, when Montcalm evacuated the place and fled to Can- 
ada. Amherst repaired and enlarged the works on a scale of great 
magnificence. 




IRuins ot ffort CiconCicroga 



In 1762 peace was ratified by the 
cession of Canada to Great Britain, 
and Lake Champlain was no longer 
the portal between hostile nations. 
Fort Ticonderoga fell into bad repair, 
and when the Revolution broke out 
was garrisoned by but fifty men. 

At daybreak on the morning of May 
10, 1775, the fort was surprised and 
captured by 83 " Green Mountain 
Boys," under command of Ethan Al- 
len, " in the name of the Great Jeho- 
Sontb from ffort ^iconc>crofla ^,^^^ ^^^^ ^1^^ Continental Congress." 

By the capture of Ticonderoga the American colonies secured what cost the British government 
eight millions of pounds sterling. The American forces held Ticonderoga until July, 1777, when Bur- 
goyne came sweeping from the north. 

The Revolutionary war closed, Fort Ticonderoga fell into decay. It is now a heap of mouldering 
and picturesque ruins, where the historian ,ind the antiquarian love to linger, dwelling in thought upon the 
olden time. Many localities and objects can still be easily identified. 





^. 



CRom''PofNrncHf^"'PORT Henry 





Oh THE BROAD Lake :^'^^ 



The Crown Point of history is a nat- 
ural peninsula, formed by Bulwagga 
Bay, a broad estuary on the west, and 
by the lake on the east, which here 
abruptly changes its course at nearly 
right angles, and from which a wide 
expanse at the north is compressed in- 
to a narrow channel scarcely a fourth 
of a mile wide. There is a stone light- 
house on the point, but otherwise it is 
abandoned to its ancient remains. On 
the east side of the lake is Chimney 
Point. The visitor at once perceives 
Crown iPotnt IRuins that this position commands the entire 

navigation of the lake. The French project was to establish a new Canadian province, extending from 
the Connecticut River to Lake Ontario, with Crown Point as its capital, and here, in 1731, Louis XV 
caused Fort St. Frederic to be erected. It consisted of a wall of limestone enclosing stone barracks, a 
church, and tall bomb-proof tower. The French also fortified Chimney Point. 

Amherst fortified Crown Point about 1760 at a cost of f 10, 000, 000. The ruins of the forts still 




attest their former strength. The mounds of Fort St. Frederic are easily perceptible, although fallen and 
dilapidated. The fort erected b}- Amherst is better preserved. The form of the vast quadrangular bar- 
racks which enclosed the esplanade may still be distinguished, although partially demolished or removed 
by unappreciative farmers for building material. Two of the barracks remain in partial preservation, one 
one hi; ndred and ninety-two feet, and the other two hundred and sixteen feet in length. The ramparts were 
about twenty-five feet thick and nearly the same in height, of solid masonr}-. The curtains varied in 
length from fifty-two to one hundred yards, and the whole circuit, measuring along the ramparts, and in- 
cluding the bastions, was eight himdred and fifty-three yards, a trifle less than half a mile. A broad ditch 
cut out of the solid limestone surrounded it. The fragments taken from the excavation were used to con- 
struct the reveting and four rows of barracks erected therein. On the north was a gate, and from the 
northeastern bastion was a covered way leading to the lake. Within the bastion was the garrison well, 
eight feet in diameter and ninety feet deep. 

The community established by France at Crown Point numbered some 1500 inhabitants. A large 
tract of land was cleared and occupied, and many evidences of their presence still exist. A street may be 
traced, extending a long distance from the point towards the mainland, raised and covered with broken 
stones. The ruins of cellars line this street on each side, and there are indications that along the margin 
of the bay the ground has been graded and formed into an artificial slope. Fragments of stone walls, en- 
closing gardens and orchards, are visible. Flagstone walks, smooth and worn, remain. The ruins of a 
cemetery are also to be seen. 



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of... 

,Ouvlinoton 



Burlington is the largest town on Lake Champlain, the metrop- 
olis of Vermont, and the capital of Chittenden County. It has a 
population of 20,000, and is a progressive, wide-awake town. The 
'7T'K/> (Ttf V) physical features of Burlington are striking. The hill upon which 

it is situated rises gradually back from the lake front until its highest 
point is reached, a mile from the shore. Upon the highest point — 
College Hill — is situated the University of A^ermont. From the north- 
ern part of the shore a narrow neck of land extends into the lake, 
«^ fe^ «^ terminating in Appletree Point, south of which, extending to Rock 

Point, is Appletree Ba}-. South of Rock Point, and extending to 
Red Rocks Point, is the broad, crescent-shaped Burlington Bay, 
with its long stretch of silvery-white sand beach and extensive 
wharfage. About a mile from Red Rocks Point is Shelburne Point, 
with the entrance to Shelburne Bay between them. This bay ex- 
tends for several miles. Lake Champlain is ten miles wide at Bur- 
lington. The outlook across the broad lake is pronounced by trav- 
elers to be the finest lake view in America, and it is generally com- 
pared to Naples. Attractive as the scene may be to the casual ob- 
ser\-er, he misses the great charm to residents who see its changes. 



P5*^ 




^'^^%f^U0MGTdM 



With mountains behind 

and mountains in front, and 

one of the most picturesque 

lakes at its feet, Burlington 

stands indeed in imperial 

beauty. To the north and 

south stretches the beautiful 

Champlain Valley. On the 

west lie the waters of historic 

Champlain, with beautiful 

islands nestling here and 

there, and white sails flitting 

across its surface. Across 

the lake the Adirondacks 

raise their lofty crests, while 

to the east the view extends 
Burlington from TRci> IRocfts ^^ ^^^ ^^^^^ Mountains. 

The University of Vermont and State Agricultural College is the pride of Burlington. The college 
grounds embrace fifty acres. The main building was re-constructed in 1884. In front is a statue of Gen. 




Lafayette, who laid the corner stone of south college in 
1825. North of the main building is the Science Build- 
ing, and north of that is Billings Library, built in the 
Romanesque style of architecture. A fine dormitory is 
to the east of the main building. The Medical Depart- 
ment is at the north of College Park. Its amphitheatre 
seats 350. The larger amphitheatre of Mary Fletcher 
Hospital is also used for clinical lectures. There are 
commodious Mechanical Buildings, also. 





TRcO 1Rock6, Xoohinct Soutb 

The Department of Agriculture has an experiment 
farm of 104 acres and has all appliances for the inves- 
tigations conducted. 

The college museum is rich in minerals, rocks, 
birds, mammals and fossils found in the State. 



IRocft IPoint 



Afan 1Rc86 

® • • If^ouse 



The Van Ness is the largest hotel in Vermont. It is opposite 
the Public Square, and near-by all the public buildings. Being 
high above the lake, its rooms afford a fine view of matchless Cham- 
plain, Shelburne Bay, the islands, and the towering Adirondac^s to 
west, while to the east are the fertile fields of Vermont, Mansfield, 
Camel's Hump, and the various peaks of the Green Mountain chain. 
The Van Ness has broad double piazzas, and an observatory and 
promenade upon the roof. 

Burlington being the point at which tourists cross routes be- 
tween the White Mountains, the Adirondack Mountains and Sara- 
toga, it is a natural point for a tarry aside from the attractions of the 
place, and the citv is always filled with tourists during the summer 
months. 



'ovt... 



Fort Ethan Allen, a U. S. cavalry post, is about four miles to 

the north of Burlington. The reservation covers about 700 acres. 

Near the reservation is the permanent camp-ground of the Vermont 

"jCfKc*** Wrr^tl militia. The fort and camp-ground are connected with Burlington 

e b}- trolley road. Fort Ethan Allen accommodates four troop of cav- 

* airy, and is planned for eight troop. The buildings include barracks, 

stables, officers' quarters, hospital, bakery, and store house. There 
are complete systems of water- works and sewage systems. Fine 
roads extend over the reservation. Nearly 300 men and officers and 
250 horses and mules are stationed here. There has been expended 
on the reservation over a third of a million dollars. A visit to the 
fort is interesting, particularly at drill time. 




v^N 



'prcniblcau 



Trembleau Hall is in the picturesque village of Port Kent, 
nearly opposite the city of Burlington. From its broad verandas 
one can obtain a magnificent combination of mountain and lake 
scenery. Across the lake is the lofty peak of Mansfield, flanked by 
mountains that extend as far as the eye can reach. Looking^south a 
charming view of real Adirondack beauty lies before the eye — a 
IFDHH mountain sloping down to the water's edge. The central location 

of Trembleau Hall affords e\ery facility for taking excursions to 
different points of interest and returning the same day. The various 
roads afford many fine drives to places of interest — to Ansable Chasm, 
Poke-o' -Moonshine pass, etc. 

Port Kent is one of the gateways to the Adirondacks, via Wil- 
mington Notch, and formerly was an important port on the lake. 
Relics of its greatness still exist in large storehouses. The hamlet 
is quite attractis'e and has many quaint features. 




ttremblcau Iball, iport Ikent 




IPostoftice— ausablc Cbasni 




©ranD fflume from above— Susablc Cbasm 



Tlusable. 



Chasm 



This remarkable natural wonder is three miles from Port Kent, 
and is formed by the Ausable River in its impetuous course from the 
Adirondack Mountains to Lake Chaniplain. The river has carved a 
channel in the Potsdam sandstone formation, in some places reaching 
a depth of 200 feet, leaving precipices of every shape towering above 
the dark water. At one place the river is compressed to a breadth 
of only ten feet, and again widens to fifty. The waters dash madly 
through their confined channels, and are precipitated over falls and 
cascades of from sixty to eighty feet in height, struggling, foaming, 
tearing and whirling over their rocky bed, as though bent on being 
freed from the thraldom of the gigantic cliffs. The length of the 
chasm proper is about two miles, and its sides and tops are fringed 
with cedars which cast a sombre shadow over it and add to its mys- 
terious grandeur. There are side or lateral gorges which greatly 
add to its interest, and the boat-ride through its marvelous flume is 
without its equal. Thousands of tourists pronounce their visit to 
the chasm as being the most enjoyable and gratifying of their sum- 
mer experience. 




"Hip from Znbie TRoch, ausable Cbasm 




IRunning tbc IRapi&s, ausable Gbasm 



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otel 



Bluff Point, nearly 200 feet high, puts out from the mainland 
nearly opposite the north end of \'alcour. The Point is crowned by 
the magnificent Hotel Champlain, which, with its auxilliar}- build- 
ings, and the embellishment of the grounds, recpired the expenditure 
(TbaniDlHin °^ ^ half-mimon dollars. A park of 265 acres surrounds the hotel, 

much of which is wooded. Bluff Point is one of the most charming 
sites in the country. Magnificent views are to be had from all parts 
of the hotel, while from the central tower nearly a thousand square 
miles of valley, lake and mountain are within range of the eye. 




Ibotel Cbaniplain 



^atboltc 



The Catholic Summer School of America owns a magnificent 
estate of 450 acres, on the west shore of Lake Champlain, adjoining 
Bluff Point, which is the steamboat landing. It is about three miles 
from Plattsburgh, and a trolley road makes that place easy of access. 
The Catholic Summer School Building and Improvement company 
is engaged in developing this property. A casino and several cot- 
tages have been erected and plans are made for the erection of several 
hundred more cottages. The Summer School has a several weeks' 
session every year, beginning in July, and attracts people from all 
parts of the country. The grounds have been laid out in an attractive 
manner by means of winding roads and the preservation of stately 
forest groves and natural elevations. A deep and narrow ravine 
traverses about one-third of the property, running almost west and 
east, and carrying a crystal brook in its bed. 




Casino aiiD ©rounOs of Catbolic Summer Scbool 



pouquet UDouse 



Paul Smith's Foiiquet House has long been a prominent institu- 
tion of its kind, and familiarly known for scores of years to the trav- 
eling community. It is close by and overlooking the railroad depot, 
and but a short distance from the steamboat landing. It is an im- 
posing structure, capable of accommodating 150 guests. The 
*■ grounds and flower garden afford a most agreeable retreat. There 

^ are broad piazzas on two sides of the house, and these, with a prom- 

enade upon the roof, afford a fine view of the lake, the battle-ground 
and the scene of the naval engagement, the U. S. barracks, the vil- 
lage, the Green Mountains of Vermont, and the Adirondacks. The 
Fouquet furnishes delightful accommodations for a residence during 
the summer months. 



^ 



piattsbuvGb ^ 

anO 



■m. S. Barracl^s 



Plattsburgh is a wide-awake village of 9000 inhabitants, the 
shire-town of Clinton County. It is built on both sides of the Saranac 
River, at its mouth. The one great event in the war of 1812 was 
the Battle of Plattsburgh. On Sunday morning in September, 1814, 
Commodore MacDonongh, commanding the American fleet, and Gen. 
Macomb, commanding the land forces, embracing 3000 men, three 
ships and ten gunboats, whipped the British, with a land force of 
14,000, four ships and twelve gunboats. The British sustained a 
loss of their fleet, 2500 men and a large amount of stores and ammu- 
nition. The Americans lost less than 150. The remains of the 
forts, built to resist the attack of the British, are interesting, and fre- 
quently visited by tourists. The British commander. Commodore 
Downic, and several officers of the contending forces rest in Platts- 
burgh cemetery, and the men who fell were buried on Crab Island. 

About a mile south of Plattsburgh is the extensive barracks be- 
longing to the U. S. government. Troops have been stationed at 
Plattsburgh since 1846. The post embraces a score of buildings, in 
a large tract of land that is traversed by fine roads. At present a 
force of infantry is stationed here. 



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